This file was updated July 12th 2013 I purchased the bed side rail profiles from. URL: http://stores.ebay.com.au/CNC-AND-CUPCAKE-WORLD/CNC-Aluminium-T-slot-frame-/_i.html?_fsub=369405619&_sid=657086089&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 Look under the category "Aluminium T-Slot Frame" The company I purchase the top bed extrusion profile from is Australis Engineering. They don't sell part lengths but will cut a full length to the individual sizes you want. Out of a full length I ended up with 2 extra. I didn't mind that as I will save them as spares in case I ever run the cutter into the bed and mess up a section. http://australiseng.com.au/aluminium_profiles.htm The Linear Bearings and ball screws came from China. I was really happy with their delivery and communication. Just one very important thing. NEVER wind the ball nut off the end of the screw, all the balls will fall out and you will never get it back together. I accidentally did this with one of them and haven't yet been able to get it back together. It sits on my desk as a reminder of what can happen. The company was really good as I messed one up and they sent me a replacement for an excellent price. URL: http://stores.ebay.com/linearmotionbearings?_trksid=p4340.l2563 I purchased a kit of X, Y, & Z Bearings, Rails and Screws etc. 3 ballscrews + 3 sets SBR rails +3sets BK/BF12+couplers Item Id: 250576555427 This item ID is still valid, go to their store and do a search on the ID number. The Linear Bearing Rail lengths are Y=670mm X=520mm Z=300mm I use a 1.5KW VFD water cooled motor on my modified Shirline Mill. It works great. I used computer water cooling components to do the cooling. For the Router I used a 1.5KW VFD Air Cooled motor. This works equally as well and can run for hours at top speed 24000RPM and not get above about 32degC. Hardly warm. I purchased the Spindle Motors from: URL: http://stores.ebay.com.au/love-happyshopping?_trksid=p4340.l2563 Do a search on "motor" I purchased a combination of a 1.5KW Motor and Matching Inverter (VFD) The Controller board is a TB6560 and stepper motors 263oz-in Nema23 Double Ended Shafts. Purchased on eBay. I had to specify and verify that the Stepper Motors could be supplied with double ended shafts. The reason for double ended is so that a manual turning knob could be fitted. I find it very convenient when setting up the zero axis points for some jobs. All the Y and X fabrication Aluminium stock thickness is 12mm. For the Z Axis fabrication it is 10mm. Widths are mostly 100mm and 50mm The S Shape Routed Gantry support Sides were cut from 12mm thick Aluminium plate. A dxf file of these can be downloaded from the CNC Routers Project page. When asked about what Speed and Feed rates I use the following are some examples: First set the cutting depth to 0.5mm for Aluminium I never set it any deeper just to be safe. Yes it takes longer to process the job but I like to take it slow and easy. So for 5mm 2 Flute End Mill my settings are generally: Pass Depth: 0.5mm Step over: 2.25mm (75) use this for almost all End Mills (not Ball Nose) Feed Rate: 350 mm/min Plunge Rate: 80 mm/min Step Over is the amount of the tool diameter that is used to cut after the first full cut when doing pockets etc. Naturally for profiling Step Over is not relevant. When using a ball nose mill doing 3D work the smaller the step over the better the finish. For my acrylic lithophanes I usually use 10 to 15% for the final cut. I have just figured out my setting over the years. I have different ones for Aluminium, Timber and Acrylic. Now when it comes to Aluminium there are different grades. 2000+ grades machine very well as they chip off while cutting so never need lubrication. However 6000+ grades are very sticky and easily build up on the cutting edge of the cutter, once that happens cutting stopes, the tool jams and hence bang it breaks. So I use a cutting lubricant "TREFOLEX C.D.T. Cutting Oil" it has a good viscosity for this sort of work. Comes in a spray can with a tube so it dosn't go every where. Spay it over the aria that will be cut every now and then. You will work all this stuff out as you go along. I am still figuring things out even now and sometimes things still go wrong. The important thing is cutters must be sharp and not chipped. Get yourself a 40X magnifying glass to check out the cutting edge if you are not sure. You can see usually chipping but it is hard to see the sharpness, If while cutting you get burring of the surface chances are you need to replace and throw away that cutter. I do not have any other dxf, construction drawings or documentation for this project other than that posted on my website. www.ghqp.com.au .